July 7, 2025
Guides

Hiking Spain’s GR92: The Mediterranean Trail for the Unhinged & Wild-Hearted

by Gene Han

Why sip spritz on the Costa Brava when you can hike it?

Forget bougie beach clubs and overpriced paella. Spain's GR92 is the move for those who'd rather sweat through their vintage mesh tee than sit poolside posting thirst traps. This Mediterranean coastal trail rips from Portbou (up by the French border) all the way down to Ulldecona in Tarragona — more than 500 miles (870 km, for the metric homies) of cliff-hugging paths, secret coves, and pastel sunrise moments that’ll make your Instagram reel go absolutely feral.

The vibe check

The GR92 is pure chaos in the best way. One minute you're winding through pine forests that smell like your overpriced eucalyptus candle, the next you're dropping down into a secluded cove that looks like a scene from Call Me By Your Name but with less peach action. You’ll wander through sleepy fishing towns, stumble upon medieval fortresses, and refuel with random bocadillos from beach bars that probably haven’t changed their menu since the ‘80s.

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What to pack (spoiler: not your skinny jeans)

  • Beat-up trail runners or hiking sandals (Crocs if you're unhinged enough, respect)
  • That ratty oversized tee you thrifted in Berlin
  • A power bank (for all the “omg take a pic of me here” moments)
  • Sunblock, unless you want to cosplay as a lobster
  • Cheap sunglasses you won’t cry about losing to the sea
  • A couple of Estrellas or vermut cans to crack open post-hike
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Where to start

If you’re in it for the aesthetic overload, kick off at Portbou and slide down the Costa Brava. This chunk is like the highlight reel — think turquoise water, craggy cliffs, and coves that’ll make you want to skinny dip immediately. Stop in Cadaqués for Dalí-core energy, or Tossa de Mar if you want to be surrounded by castle walls and Euro babes in speedos.

Not down for the full odyssey? Break it up into day hikes. You can hop on buses or trains along the coast and design your own half-feral itinerary.

Vibes > miles

Don’t stress about "crushing miles." This isn’t the Appalachian Trail, and you’re not trying to win some hiker purity contest. Sleep wherever, eat whatever, take a dip whenever. The GR92 is all about the chaotic good energy — sweaty, salty, maybe a little sunburnt, but fully alive.

Pro tips from someone who almost lost a sandal to the Med

  • Go off-season (May/September) to dodge tourist swarms and melting asphalt
  • Always carry cash — small coastal towns might clown your card
  • Say "una caña" instead of "cerveza grande" if you wanna blend in
  • If someone invites you for a random anchovy tasting at 10 am, just go with it

In short

The GR92 is that messy best friend who drags you out till 4 am and then makes you breakfast at 8. It’s wild, raw, unpredictable, and endlessly photogenic. Hike it for the plot. Hike it for the stories. Hike it because you’d rather have salt in your hair and dust on your shoes than be stuck scrolling TikTok all summer.

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